Rise and Fall of Greeks in Sicily

On our previous visit to Sicily two years ago, we ran out of time and opportunity to visit two places we really wanted to see: Cefalù and Agrigento. Although somewhat off the path of our Camino Caravaggio, we are looking forward to visiting them on this trip.

Olives,  almonds, grapes frame Temple of Juno (in Greek, Hera) with the Mediterranean sparkling beyond.

Agrigento is a small city founded by persons of Greek origin about 500 BC near Sicily’s southwestern, Aftica-facing coast. The site had remarkable defensive features,  including two high ridges surrounded at the time by two rivers.

In front of the Temple of Juno.

Carthaginians crossed the Mediterranean from Africa to plunder Sicily and Agrigento in about 200 BC but were defeated. The victorious Agrigenti manifested their power and prosperity by building a series of magnificent temples to the gods. In the 1800s archaeologists began to uncover and study the remains,  now a UNESCO World Heritage site known as the Valley of the Temples.

At the Temple of Hercules (in Greek, Heracles) with our terrific guide, Valentina.

After some time,  the Carthaginians returned to attack and,  this time,  defeat the Agrigenti. In their vengeful pride,  Carthage smashed the largest temple into smithereens. Today only pieces of a few of the 30-plus telemons (huge human figures) which once held up the roof of the Temple of Jupiter (in Greek, Zeus) can be found.

Ed is dwarfed by a telemon reassembled from the ruins of the Temple of Zeus, smashed by the Carthaginians.
According to the scale model,  the enormous Temple of Zeus uses a total of 34 monstrous telemons to hold up its roof.

We are lucky indeed to have our guide, Valentina, a PhD candidate in art history, to explain and engage. Mother to a three-year old girl,  she lives with her husband,  a graphic artist, from time to time in Palermo, Madrid and Mexico  City. She will also be our guide in a few days in Siracusa, where we will see Caravaggio’s The Burial of St Lucy.

Please pray for healing for Ed’s brother,  John, rehospitalized for pneumonia.

A Scarce Swallowtail Butterfly perched on aromatic Sicilian herbs.
Probably the foundation of a Temple to Ceres (in Greek, Demeter).
The full moon gleaming through clouds after our al fresco dinner in 75 degree light breezy weather.

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