I am writing this post on October 10 from Siena, a world class city of historical and artistic significance. We enjoyed our last “rest day” in Siena and tomorrow will begin a series of nine walking days before the final approach to Rome.

We started October by traveling from Maritime di Massa to Camaiore, leaving the Ligurian Sea to go back inland for the rest of our Camino.

To get to Maritime di Massa (Port of Massa) we walked through heavy rain that came an hour before predicted. We were soaked and uncomfortable, but luckily the next day was mostly clear and we felt ourselves again!

On another rainy evening in Aulla, a town with ancient Roman roots and name, we made friends with two French pilgrims, Annelise and Simon. They are a delightful couple expecting their first child and spending six plus weeks walking the Via de San Francesco, starting with two weeks of tent camping through France to get to Italy! We admire their stamina and their enormous good nature and charm.

Highlights of the last few days: After the rain and wet we have been blessed with fine weather.

When we reached the fabulous small city of Lucca, we treated ourselves to a “rest day” which means we actually spent two consecutive nights in the same place! Our last rest day was in Pavia, 11 days earlier. It was delightful.

We continue to exercise Ed’s imagination and planning to use a combination of busses, trains and cabs to be able to walk about 10 to 12 km per day. This is less than our 2019 camino daily average of 15 km but appears sustainable. Ed can go longer and faster but is kind to adapt to my capabilities. Anne has two new blisters but the highly effective silicone patches sold in Italy work beautifully. Along the way, we are also becoming quite knowledgeable about the idiosyncrasies of Italian local public transport.

Yesterday I fell on my butt. It was going to happen, sooner or later.

Luckily, all I got was some mud on my pants and a lightly bruised ego. After five days crossing the northern part of the Appenine Mountains, our legs are VERY tired from negotiating steep ups and downs.

Thanks to Ed’s careful planning, utilizing local trains, busses, cabs and rides from kind folks, although we knew the mountainous section would be tough, we avoided the impossible (for me) bits and walked 8 to 12 rough kms each day. Damp underfoot made the rocks and mud slippery.

Mountains — and rough ancient paths — teach us to concentrate. Even a moment’s distraction and one finds oneself on the ground. Mountains teach humility, and love for a Maker who conceives of beauty beyond measure. Mountains cause us to treasure quiet, and the small, clear voice of a bird. And when we come out of the mountain path, we welcome reminders of human living like sweeping the floor and walking home from school.

Most evenings we are rewarded with mass in a local church, typically 800 plus years old, and a fabulous meal with fresh ingredients prepared in the locally “typical” way. We have made note of many variations in the presentation of the mass, length (or absence) of homily, etc. We are consoled to listen to the readings in Italian as we try to brush up on a few words.

HURRICANE IAN IN FLORIDA: We learned yesterday that the enormous Hurricane Ian caused great flooding and destruction in southwest Florida, including Naples where we have our condo. We are grateful for our friends and neighbors whom we have heard are safe, and pray for safety and recovery for all. The storm surge apparently reached to within a foot of entering our building’s ground floor (our unit is on the second) but overall it appears as though there was no significant damage. There had been flooding in the streets and not surprisingly the power has been out and is likely to be out for a while, which can cause its own issues, especially in Florida.

It started overcast and dreary, with rain overnight. Until yesterday we had enjoyed beautiful blue skies and warmth since our arrival in Italy on September 13, twelve days ago. However, our walking confidence had been shaken when Anne had trouble with her right hip and left knee against strong winds on out first full scheduled walking day leaving Milan.

Since then, Ed has patiently arranged for rest and rides, including a great deal of kindness from strangers (see posts “Struggling above rice fields” and “Encouragement and help.”) Then we gradually tried walking 6 km one day, then ten km, and yesterday, 16 km.

Today we took two local trains, breaking our journey to look around Parma, famous for outstanding ham and cheese, as well as a Benedictine monastery (more on that in another post) and a beautiful pink and white Baptistery next to the cathedral.

Disembarking from the second train at Fornovo de Taro, we faced a lengthy uphill climb of an hour to our B&B La Vecchia Quercia (“The Old Oak”) with dramatic views over the almost-dry Fiume Taro far below. It is a charming old farmhouse and our hostess, Manuela, is sending delicious aromas out from the kitchen as we wait for dinner. (Thank goodness we don’t need to go down and up the hill to eat!)

Tomorrow’s forecast is again for cool temperatures and showers. We look forward to a steep uphill climb for ten km. Ed says he figures that tomorrow will be our most challenging day for climbing. “We shall see,” he says. We shall pray. Stay tuned.

AGAIN we share news of a loss of which we just learned: Paul Hullar, a son of Ed's oldest sister, Margery, passed away unexpectedly a few days ago. He was only 60 years old.  Paul's mom, Margery, known as Margie, was named after Ed's mother. Margie was the first of the ten siblings in Ed's family to pass away (from ovarian cancer, 20 years ago). With Bill's recent passing,  only five of the ten siblings are still living. 

We pray for Paul and the family. 

Our first, very windy day, was a struggle for Anne. Our last Camino was in 2019, and of course, she hoped that she could climb back onto the Camino track, walking 15 km a day, without missing a beat. We made no Caminos for the next two years due to covid. But during that time, arthritis, a knee with worn-out meniscus and neuroma in one foot have made themselves known.

So the walking was not so easy for Anne. But the day was brightened when we met Carla, who is on Instagram at young_farmer_girl. Full of vivacious energy, and possessing very good English, her curiosity and good humor made us feel special, putting a bit more vim into Anne’s step when they continued on the path.

Going slower and slower, Anne was caught up by Jinhie, a young professional from the Bay Area. Jinhie had walked on the Via Francigena OVER THE ALPS by way of St Bernard’s Pass — a marvelous accomplishment. She courteously slowed her pace to walk with me for a bit, while she told me of her recent graduation and a new job waiting at the approaching end of her Camino.

We were stuck: after struggling for five hours in the wind the day before, Anne needed to rest for a day from walking. But we were in the tiny hamlet of Robbio on a Sunday. The single Sunday train and single Sunday bus had both already left early in the morning. There were no taxis, said the bar keepers (in Italy, bars serve coffee as much or more than liquor) but they asked someone who knows English to speak with us.

That someone was Happy, a beautiful young woman from Taiwan married to a local from Robbio. She was at the bar as a Chinese tutor to the owners’ children. When she learned of our plight she offered to return after lunch to drive us where we needed to go. We learned about her life in many parts of the world, included Texas and Louisiana, and we made a new friend.

Lesson from the Camino: adversity and vulnerability create encounters in which others respond with kindness and friendship.

Our first full day of walking was highly anticipated but proved to be unexpectedly challenging.

We left Vercelli enjoying sunshine and temperatures in the 70s. Soon, however, we were walking on top of the high dike above flooded rice fields.

Anne struggled against the wind and didn’t have her backpack adjusted correctly, which made her pack act like a sail. With the hurting wind, we only managed ten kilometers in almost five hours. We took a local train for the final eight km to Robbio, where the only accommodation was the municipal hostel, sharing space with police and fire vehicles.

When we went to Saturday vigil mass at Santo Stephano in Robbio, we chatted with some locals, one of whom turned out to be the priest in mufti. At the end of the celebration, he introduced us as pilgrims to the congregation, so we became mini-celebrities for a few minutes.

We feel asleep listening to the pigeons.

CONTACTING US AS WE TRAVEL: Our US telephone numbers (voice and text) have been disconnected. You can email us at our regular Gmail addresses. Wifi here is sporadic. It may take a while for us to respond. Currently our time zone is six hours ahead of US Eastern Time.

May you be blessed with peace and health.

It started in Portuguese (bem-vindo=welcome) with a seven hour flight on TAP out of Dulles to Lisbon and another two hours to Milan. Listening to the sibilant-gutteral tones of the attendants’ announcements reminded us of our 2017 Camino Portugueś to Santiago de Campostela, our third Camino, when we walked north from Lisbon.

Milan, on this, our first visit, impressed us with its beauty and vibrance at night. After weathering a long taxi line, we found out hotel only steps from the Duomo (thanks to the BEST travel agent, Ed), with an energetic crowd strolling and cycling at high speed, listening to street music.

On our first day we took care of various tasks, the most significant of which was securing our Via Francigena (VF) pilgrim passports. Caterina, a charming VF volunteer, and her vivacious cat, also helped us with local information. A one-man ferry over the Po River has recently resumed operations after the summer’s drought forced water levels catastrophically low.

We also squeezed in a bit of sightseeing. A thrill of pleasure ran through our bodies as we visited La Scala Opera House, scene of first performances of Aida, Don Giovanni, and countless beautiful works. Sadly, we are too early for the season to begin so cannot attend a performance, this trip at least.

PLEASE NOTE: BILL MULDOON’S FULL OBITUARY CAN BE FOUND AT KESSLERMAGUIRE.COM and shorter versions will be published on September 18 editions of the Boston Globe and St Paul Pioneer Press.

As many of you know, Ed was number nine of ten children who grew up in Roslindale, City of Boston. Ed’s brother, Bill, was number eight (his email address was Liam810 for #8 of 10).

We learned that Bill passed away at the Labor Day weekend. He had lived in St Paul, Minnesota for more than 40 years, ever since he went there to earn a PhD in medicinal chemistry at the University of Minnesota. In recent years, he firmly resisted suggestions that he move closer to family in the Boston area by those of us who were concerned that he didn’t have relatives nearby. He made St Paul his home to the end.

A big and unique personality, Bill was a significant figure in Ed’s life… and in Anne’s. In the seventies, shortly after we started dating, Bill visited his parents and siblings in Boston and launched the first of many piercing conversations with Anne. He ran marathons and, as a scientist and later, a university professor, he never hesitated to share finely judged points of view.

As the years went on, Bill broke up with his partner, Gary, the parents died, Bill took early retirement from the university and switched to working as a pharmacist. Unchanging, however, was Bill’s commitment to the family. Whenever he could, he attended family gatherings. He tracked the names of the children, the grandchildren, the great-grandchildren. Over decades, he made countless biannual pilgrimages to Ireland to ĺook up, and in many cases, visit with Muldoon, Lynch, McGlinchey relations.

We dedicate this Pilgrimage on the Via Francigena to Bill.

Written on September 2nd: As we pack (the bare minimum) in our backpacks and as Ed wraps up plans for our route and accommodations, we also look back with love and gratitude on the just-ending beautiful summer. Marked by losses, sorrow and also reunions and joy, memories of the summer weave a tapestry against which we will quietly contemplate Creation during our pilgrimage.

A few treasured summer memories out of so many…

It’s been a long three years since we put on our walking shoes in Europe. Our route starting September 2022 will be the Italian section of the Via Francigena from Milan to Rome. The VF is even more ancient than the Camino de Santiago and as the map above shows, traditionally took pilgrims from Canterbury, England and France over the Alps and down the Italian peninsula to Rome. On the map, you can find our starting point between Aosta and Piacenza.

Back in 2019 our last Camino ended in Santiago de Campostela, Spain after we walked the Camino del Norte. Our first Camino — when we caught the “Camino bug” — was 2015 when we walked the traditional Camino “Frances” (the “French way”) from St Jean Pied-du-Port in France, over the Pyrenees and westward across Spain. In 2016 we walked the Camino of St Francis from Florence through the Appenines to La Verna and Assisi to Rome.

Our third Camino, in 2017, was the Camino Portugues, starting in Lisbon and going north to Santiago. In 2018 we did the first half of the Camino del Norte, which follows Spain’s north coast along the Bay of Biscay. Our starting point was Lourdes in France. In 2019, the second half began in Santander and ended in Santiago de Campostela.

We are excited to resume our meditative walking and curious to see how we adapt to the realities of the post-covid world. Stay tuned for occasional blogs from the path.

NOTES: You want to “subscribe” to this anneandedblog.com to be notified when new posts are published.

If you are curious about our previous caminos, look through the Monthly Archives. And if you see the post called Ups and Downs in Asturias from Soto de Luina, it dates from September 2019 and I haven’t figured out how to get it to appear in its proper date order. (I have subsequently deleted that post.)