Early autumn on the Camino 2025

Even though we get up and walk each day, no two days are the same on the Camino. And even though we’ve done this before, the details to come are unknown.

Ed with red backpack on Camino in La Rioja

What’s been consistent: good weather,  cool mornings turning hot. Indications of harvest: grapes dark and white,  hanging in bunches from ancient vine stocks. Beauty everywhere: the colors and contours,  rolling vistas and tiny wildflowers blooming into autumn.

Vineyard in Navarre
Wildflowers in margins of fields
Vineyards in the famous wine growing province of La Rioja

What’s been inconsistent? A few hosts who seem new to the Camino have not been as helpful as most. A turnover of a generation, noticed by us compared to our first Camino 10 years ago? Fortunately, most hosts continue to go out of their way to help.

Lovely hosts Betty and Bart who are from the Netherlands and welcoming peregrinos for over 10 years, in their kitchen at Cass  Rurale Montededeio in Villa Mayor de Montjardin (Navarre)
Betty and Bart’s daughters Anna and Aileen, who are learning Spanish and English in addition to their Dutch at the local school

Other inconsistencies? In the last 10 years many of the plumbing and electrical fixtures have not been upgraded from their previous decrepid state, leading to awkward dances with the soap, etc. And wifi is always advertised but frequently non functional.

A helpful volunteer administers a sello (stamp) into Ed’s pilgrim passport (campostela) at San Pedro’s  in Estella. This photo is reminiscent of Carravaggio, I thought…

Some days the Camino seems crowded with other pilgrims never out of eye or ear shot. Indeed, the 2025 projection is for 430,000 compared to 240,000 (then a record) in 2015. But today our way was quiet and shared with only a few.

Today’s crop is sunflowers in Castile y Leon, Spain’s largest province, which we will cross for the next a number of days.

Health updates: Ed’s cold appears to be improving.  Anne’s knee is doing well but she has a couple of troublesome blisters. It’s interesting that a tiny area on a foot can cause so much angst with each step. Last night’s wonderful host,  Fernando, drove Ed to a farmacia where he acquired a blister ointment called Blastoestimulina. It’s powerful name gives me confidence that it will be effective!

In front of the red sandstone cliffs of Najera.

Tomorrow it’s predicted to be cooler. We have a big walk up into the remote mountains with no auto roads, so we will need your prayers to be able to make it on my tender feet and safety for both of us. We continue to carry each of you and your prayers with us with every step.

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