Monthly Archives: October 2024

AFTER-MATH — a second harvest

Irish bloom in Ballymote, County Sligo, October 2024

“Aftermath” — “definition: a second crop sown and reaped after the first mowing (math=mowing in Anglo-Saxon.) Following Hurricane Milton’s onslaught in Florida this week, the word has been used a lot, as in, “the aftermath of the hurricane…” I was surprised to learn from the dictionary that “aftermath” suggests a renewed and restorative second chapter and not simply a bleak devastation following a crisis.

In Ballymote, County Sligo, western Ireland. From left, Ed, John Kerins, John’s granddaughter Hollie, Ed’s cousin Mary (married to John), their granddaughter Laura, Anne.

This post will bring you up to date on the “aftermath” of our European sojourn for the last month, full of unplanned and unexpected experiences.

Cousin Anthony (Mary’s brother) lives in the next house down the lane
Anthony suffered an industrial accident when he was a young man. He raises cattle on family land surrounding four homes where he, sister Mary, and two of Mary & John’s sons, Leo and Bernard and their wives and children, live in close proximity
What do you think of a family resemblance? And similar hair cuts?

AFTERMATH: Irish Family Ties Strengthened. We spent a week in chilly and damp Ireland,  our second visit there after the death in 2022 of Ed’s dear brother, Dr. Bill Muldoon of St Paul and St John’s Abbey, Minnesota.

In Derry, Northern Ireland with cousin Mary Furey and her husband,  Tony, in their gorgeous garden

We feel closer than ever to these wonderful, hospitable and generous people and we are grateful to Bill for bringing them so fully into our lives.

AFTERMATH: Update on Anne’s Knee. Preliminary diagnosis is a wrench to tissues, no break or tear. Three weeks post event walking is already less painful. Physical therapy evaluation in one week with therapy to follow.

AFTERMATH: Hurricane Milton strikes Florida. While it appeared at some point that Milton might head for the southwest Gulf Coast near our Naples, FL condo — and 7 million Floridians were under evacuation orders on October 9-10 — the storm’s path was not as dire as it could have been. Flood waters came up,  but not as close as during Hurricane Ian last year. Our condo suffered neither wind nor flood surge damage although power was off for 12 hours or so. Our downstairs neighbor remained in residence and on guard while his wife and daughter sheltered in a nearby hotel. We think to relocate ourselves there for the winter toward the second half of November.

One corner of the DC master bedroom where the ceiling collapsed from a pinhole leak in a hot water line

AFTERMATH: Ceiling collapse at Broadmoor Apartment. We are very grateful to our roommate and cousin, Dru, to Ed’s daughter, Lara, and to the Broadmoor crew, led by Alvaro, who responded to the messy and stinky collapse of our DC bedroom ceiling that occurred during our first week in Spain! We are grateful to be able to sleep in our own room since our return late on October 8, although wall repairs will be ongoing for a while.

Cloister of Burgos Catedral

AFTERMATH: How have we changed? With so many memories and experiences shared between us and with friends and families, there is much to absorb and ponder. Beauty, creativity, love. Impatience and patience. Pain, tolerance, care.

Cloister floor

Sharing a few more memories,  below…

Carla and Enrico explain to Ed how he will play the “Naples game.”
Ed must close his eyes, get spun around three times, and then walk toward the entrance to the Basilica in the background. I doubt if anyone can succeed,  but it is amusing for onlookers. (Rather than going toward the Basilica, Ed headed towards the Bay of Napoli!) Our friendship with Enrico and Carla is very special to us.
On the terrace of our B&B in Napoli, we thought to use the clothes line to hang out hand-washed clothes to dry. This resulted in an emotional, long and wordy protest by the housekeeper who showed up. Ed handled the situation brilliantly, in his fluent Italo-english.
In the event, the housekeeper, whom you can see mostly obscured by Ed in this last photo,   ends up helping Ed hang the clothes!

We have long wanted to visit Ravenna, capital of the western Roman Empire after it began to break up, in order to admire its wonderful mosaics. Ravenna is not an easy place to reach, whether for ancient tribal invaders,  or even today. We tried to figure a way to visit on Anne’s bad leg, but finally gave up the notion.

And then we discovered the newly restored and reopened Baptistery of the Naples Duomo, featuring stunning mosaics you can see behind us
Naples Duomo Baptistery: magnificent mosaics.
The sign says, “These mosaics exceed those of Rome… or Ravenna!”  (No competitiveness here?) So no need to visit Ravenna, after all… although one day we still hope to go…
A last look at the Camino, at the Alto de Perdun, where we are about to face the perilous descent
At the bottom of the descent, when adrenaline still masked Anne’s knee injury
Where will the Way take us next? What will be the second harvest to be reaped after the first mowing? We are open and listening.

Treasuring Spain, Italy and Ireland on the way back to the States

Difficult it has been to discern what to do once it became clear that Anne’s knee would not tolerate continued walking on the Camino.

Catedral de Burgos

At first we played it day by day. Putting weight on the left leg was painful: would this improve?

Wine-colored water in fountain  in honor of Logroño’s annual Wine Festival

We took buses forward along the Camino route,  from Estella to Los Arcos and then to Logroño, capital of Spain’s wine growing district,  La Rioja. When we reached Logroño it happened to be September 24, Feast of St Matthew, celebrated with great enthusiasm with meat cooked over open fires, wine and drink,  music and bull fighting.

Puppets and merrymakers in Logroño

Another bus ride brought us to Burgos, a place that we long hoped to revisit. Burgos Catedral is the only Spanish cathedral which is,  on its own (not part of an historical district) a World Heritage Site. Scores of inspired artists and craftsmen from across Europe created a marvel of the “new” style — Gothic — in north central Spain, the kingdom of Aragon and Leon.

Looking at Burgos Catedral
Our hotel room overlooked the Catedral
Inside Burgos Catedral

By this time we determined that we would spend another couple of weeks in Europe and then seek medical attention for the knee back in the States. We decided to visit two places that we wanted to see for the first time — Zaragoza, Spain and Naples, Italy — and then visit our dear family in Ireland.

Aljaferia Palace in Zaragoza, converted into the seat of regional parliament.
Along with Granada and Cordoba, Zaragoza preserves stunningly beautiful Moorish art and architecture
Famous Zaragoza candy shop
Santa Maria del Pilar — Santa Maria of the Pillar, containing at the pillar of precious stone shown by legend by Mary to Saint James
A free-standing Chapel within the structure of Sta Maria del Pilar

Zaragoza is a dynamic city with the Goya Museum and much to see. Also, it was blessedly warm and sunny,  compared to the chilly dampness we left behind on the Camino route.

Ed walks with our friends Enrico and Carla toward Vesuvius along the Naples sea front
Enrico helped us out on the Via Francigena in 2022 and we had a reunion at an authentic Neapolitan restaurant
Plaza Plebiscito, Napoli, following 6:30 pm mass
Of course,  we had to have pizza.

From Naples we fly to Ireland with hope to return to Washington DC by October 9.