We are in the last phases of the post-pilgrimage section of our 2022 Via Francigena in Italy.
Yesterday we made a day trip to visit Siracusa (Syracuse), one of the great cities of the ancient world. A highlight was the Greek Theatre where Aeschylus premiered a play.
We will be leaving Sicily on Friday for three last days in Rome, and then spend an overnight at a Dublin airport hotel to prepare for flights back to Fort Myers, Florida, through Newark. We should be in the US on November 2nd after a late-night arrival.
If technology holds up, we’ll be able to receive calls and texts on our US numbers after November 2 (after we switch out our Italian SIM cards. )
We’ve been staying in Catania, on Sicily’s west coast. Giuseppe Manzini, an author of Italian independence and unification, seems depressed. Our B&B is in the pink building, across from the Manzini sculpture park. The front door to our B&B was impressive. Once inside, first we find a motor scooter parking area — INSIDE the building. And beyond the motor scooters, a messy construction site. But our room was pretty nice.
Ed’s plan was to explore Sicily by rental car. Given the poor state of the roads and the aggressiveness of drivers and motor scooters, this is not an easy undertaking. On the third day, perhaps with not enough hydration and other factors, Ed didn’t feel well and we had an encounter with the Italian emergency medical system. Don’t worry: four doctors gave him two EKG’s and pronounced him ok. And he has been feeling fine since then. We decided to turn in the rental car and continue our trip by using local busses and trains.
After the medical encounter, Ed feels fine. He’s enjoying Sicilian seafood and dolci (desserts). This photo is of cassata, which had alternated with cannolli as his local favorites so far (cake made with Sicilian lemons is also on the short list).Before leaving Catania for Palermo today, we visited the Museum of the Landings in Catania 1943, which tells the story of the US and British invasions of Sicily against Italian and German forces. Can we remember and comprehend the horrors of war so that we can avoid war?A couple of photos you might enjoy. This statute of Moses was sculpted by Michelangelo. We first saw it with Ed’s brother, Bill, when we visited Rome with him about eight years ago. Without planning, we stumbled across it a few days ago and remembered Bill with gratitude and affection. And this view of the Tiber, the Eternal City, and the sky.
We look forward to seeing you and talking with you when we return to the States. Meanwhile, we keep you in our prayers and ask for yours.
Ed likes to say that the impetus of this pilgrimage is a book called “Pilgrimage to Eternity” written by a Wall Street Journal reporter named Timothy Egan. The book was suggested by our cousin, Charlie, and given by me to Ed as a Christmas gift during the start of the Covid era.
On a closing stage of the Via Francigena in a little town called Acquapendente. It has a big name and an austere Franciscan monastery. Keeping our strength up with adequate nourishment, in this case, a panina filled with porchetta and local cheese, was important on the way.
I actually didn’t care that much for the book, but the title, referring to the nomenclature of Rome as The Eternal City, caught our imagination. Ed was (correctly, to some degree) skeptical of my physical ability to walk this pilgrimage, but we were both motivated to try at least one more camino. Walking long distances to never-before seen (by us) places, day after day, with every-day cares and concerns put away, has been a set of treasured experiences for us that have shaped our lives of prayer and action.
Ed carried the heavier load in his backpack, probably 18 pounds, including multiple electrical converters because every night the place we stayed had a different type of electrical outlet. Some were three plugs in a triangle, or three plugs in a straight line or two plugs, but not the same spread as US plugs… you get the idea. He acquired three new converters on the road (to add to the two he brought from the US). Often he had to plug one converter into another. The climb up to Porcena was steep and long and rewarded us with a glorious view the following morning. In Bolsena we stayed in a former convent where the cells of the former sisters could be detected. While the rooms were spartan, the convent offered the best view of Lake Bolsena, the largest volcanic lake in Europe.Sunset over Lake Bolsena.We will miss the quiet hours walking through woods and fields. Another lake view from the VF walking path from Bolsena to MontefiasconeOn our last full walking day, our path took us through a deep cut through volcanic “tufa” rock. Unfortunately, cars and trucks also used the road. Our last day also gave Ed an opportunity to play shepherd. And here we are at Saint Peter’s in Roma on October 20, a bit battered and worn, but content.
We will write again from our “vacation” in Sicily next week so you can track us until our return to the US (we are headed to Naples, Florida) scheduled for late on November 2nd.
Rome is the traditional end and apex of the Via Francigena, although some go on to the southern tip of Italy and even to Jerusalem. Ed and I are now within seven days of entering Rome. We feel some impatience to reach the end of the pilgrimage and also a tinge of regret.
We walk through the ancient and beauty- filled landscape. Tonight we sleep in Proceno, another Tuscan hill town (yes, a big climb means a good night’s sleep).Fall colors remind us that we who are in the autumn of our life spans are called to spread light and love. Although the forecast predicted rain this week, morning mists have cleared to provide a series of gorgeous days with excellent walking temperatures. The Via Francigena has taken us by many stunning examples of human constructions built to glorify God. (Duomo of Siena, from our room in a former convent a few nights ago.) How can we humans glorify the One who is Creator of all?More than 1,000 years ago, villagers built this modest place of worship. We have received the Eucharist most evenings in places both grand and humble. Our universal church celebrates the same liturgy everywhere around the world, in every language, so we always feel at home. As we walked away from a Franciscan monastery on a Tuscan hill, we found this blessing to share with you: May the Lord watch over your coming and your going, now and forever.
A view from a high place.Each time we take a bus, there are anxieties: will it come? Is this the right place to catch it? The blue sign Ed is perusing so intently indicates a bus stop, and yes, it did come. When we catch a train, we know where the station is, but still wonder if we read the schedule correctly. In the little towns where we are walking, there’s usually only one or two trains or busses per day. So far we’ve been very fortunate!Our reward is a manageable walk of 8 to 12 kms through the beautiful landscape of Tuscany, touched by the golden highlights of autumn.At the hill town of Gambassi Terme we prepared for the next day’s walk into San Gemignano.Evening light from our window.Morning mists from our window the following day. San Gemignano is famous for 71 towers (15 remain today) built to show off the wealth of their 12th and 13th century owners. The age of the town belies is New York City-like skyline. Occasionally we must walk along the roadway, which, given the speed and heedlessness of Italian drivers, is a hair-raising undertaking.Another famous hill town is Montereggione, built and fortified by Siena to protect Siena’s flank. The Canadian couple in this photo took a picture of Ed and me climbing doggedly up the steep hill toward the north-facing town gate (there are only two gates in the wall.)Here we are. The photo doesn’t really do justice to the steepness of the hill; maybe 30 degrees for 300 meters (my estimate).
I am writing this post on October 10 from Siena, a world class city of historical and artistic significance. We enjoyed our last “rest day” in Siena and tomorrow will begin a series of nine walking days before the final approach to Rome.
We started October by traveling from Maritime di Massa to Camaiore, leaving the Ligurian Sea to go back inland for the rest of our Camino.
Our brief glimpse of the Ligurian Sea for one night showed a calm surface and a contrast to the mountains and forests we had been walking for more than two weeks.
To get to Maritime di Massa (Port of Massa) we walked through heavy rain that came an hour before predicted. We were soaked and uncomfortable, but luckily the next day was mostly clear and we felt ourselves again!
The only photo I took through the pouring rain was of a stand of beautiful umbrella pines.
On another rainy evening in Aulla, a town with ancient Roman roots and name, we made friends with two French pilgrims, Annelise and Simon. They are a delightful couple expecting their first child and spending six plus weeks walking the Via de San Francesco, starting with two weeks of tent camping through France to get to Italy! We admire their stamina and their enormous good nature and charm.
Our new pilgrim friends Annelise and Simon. (I can’t help but remarking on the similarity of Annelise’s name and mine.)
Highlights of the last few days: After the rain and wet we have been blessed with fine weather.
With only a little regret we left the mountains, called the Alpuan Alps, behind. There were some steep and slippery stretches, but so far, no more falls. Beautiful light at sunset from our window outside Camaiore.
When we reached the fabulous small city of Lucca, we treated ourselves to a “rest day” which means we actually spent two consecutive nights in the same place! Our last rest day was in Pavia, 11 days earlier. It was delightful.
Duomo (Cathedral) of LuccaOne of the treasures inside Lucca’s Duomo is a tender Della Robbia of the Annunciation.Waiting for us in Lucca was the first of two shipments of my rheumatoid arthritis medicine that requires refrigeration. So far, so good.While Lucca’s Duomo was great, we also appreciated the neighborhood laundry for doing a same-day load for us!We had a front-row table at a Michelin-rated restaurant in Lucca’s Anfiteatrico, an elliptical piazza built on the footprint of its ancient Roman forum.After leaving Lucca, we climbed up to another Tuscan hill town. San Miniato. where we attended mass at the convent of the Poor Clares. There we also ran into our new pilgrim friends, Annelise and Simon.Vineyards after the harvest. As mentioned before, it’s been extremely dry this summer across Europe.
We continue to exercise Ed’s imagination and planning to use a combination of busses, trains and cabs to be able to walk about 10 to 12 km per day. This is less than our 2019 camino daily average of 15 km but appears sustainable. Ed can go longer and faster but is kind to adapt to my capabilities. Anne has two new blisters but the highly effective silicone patches sold in Italy work beautifully. Along the way, we are also becoming quite knowledgeable about the idiosyncrasies of Italian local public transport.
Anne and Ed Blog 