Yesterday, September 27, we walked in light rain and cool (65°) from Navia to Tapia de Castariego. Both are fishing ports (neither as dramatic as Luarca) but Tapia thrusts out furthest on a slim peninsula. This morning the temperature is only 49° at waking, so the seasonal change is felt.

The maize is being harvested (Ed is hoping to witness the process in person) and we walk by fields of bronzed stubble. Occasional song birds break the silence.

We were happy to celebrate Mass last night in Tapia’s parish church, San Esteban. The last five nights did not offer Mass opportunities. We have been walking through even more remote, small places with few people compared to the first two weeks.

The quality of the seafood in small places next to the fish landing spots is delightful. Navia’s famous (we were told) El Chikren del Puerta has only a small sign on its door, obscured when the door is left open. The navarones (razor clams) were amazing. Tapia’s La Marina answered with Sopa de Pescadore and rabadolla (turbot).