We felt impelled to take a detour off the Camino del Norte to visit Oviedo, one of the most storied locations in Spain. The cathedral (seen above) is wonderful. Its huge altarpiece presents 23 scenes of the Life of Jesus and the Virgin which are more brilliant and eloquent than any movie or video. Its Sacred Chamber holds many priceless relics. Although bombed at least twice (once during the Civil War and later by anarchists) its antechamber is decorated with wonderful stone sculptures of the Apostles talking, two by two.

Artists from Burgos, our favorite city along the Camino Frances, were brought in to decorate Oviedo’s cathedral. The Apostles chamber has been compared to the Portico della Gloria of the Cathedral of Santiago de Campostela. We are anxious to see that Portico on this Camino: it will be our third try as it had been under major restoration during both our previous visits.

God is smiling on us during our Camino. First, the weather has been almost completely dry and there has been very little mud (“la boue” in France, fango in Italy and barro in Spain). Second, the circus has been following us from one small town to another, and then our overnights have coincided with the town’s major annual festival three different times. (Lots of fireworks and drinking.)

Most significantly, when we inquired about mass last night in Oviedo, we learned that it was the penultimate night of the sacred week during which worshippers at Oviedo receive a plenary indulgence. If you don’t know what that means, let’s just say that we are very lucky, indeed.