It was raining and 46 degrees when we set out from Orio yesterday (Sunday, May 12). Then it stopped raining and the sun came out. Then it rained again, with a chill wind blowing off the Atlantic. It seemed as though at least five distinct bands ranging from “winter” to “summer” swept through– but it never got warmer than 58 degrees.

Rain pants have been essential gear, and we’ve been busy zipping and unzipping various layers. The scenery is gorgeous and the paths very quiet.

We felt blessed when we walked up the steep hill to the 17th century church San Nicolas de Bari in Orion on Saturday at 5:20 pm and learned that there would be Mass at 6:00 pm! We were equally fortunate to be able to celebrate Feast of the Ascension at 8:30 am in St Jean Pied de Port. May we continue to enjoy His protection. (Mass times don’t seem to be shown on any website. If posted at all, they are written on a sign stuck INSIDE the door of the church, which is, of course, closed and locked when there is no mass…)

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