We walked into Santiago de Campostela on June 8, a lovely and sunny day. It felt different from our first entrance to the legendary city, in 2015. Coming as we did this year from Portugal, the Way was much less crowded than the route “Frances” from St. Jean Pied du Port across northern Spain. And the mix of pilgrims on our route contained fewer young people and more retirees, many of whom seemed to be inclined toward tourism rather than prayer. In ourselves, too, the inner process was different. There was still a sense of swelling anticipation, but with a sort of quiet pleasure. We even slowed our pace as we drew closer, in order to savor our last kilometers of countryside (and favor Anne’s newest blister). Local people tell us that the weather in Galicia has become less rainy, foggy and chilly in the last couple of years. (Draw your own conclusions about global warming.)

So, Santiago: one wouldn’t expect a city founded by the Romans, that has been welcoming pilgrims for 1,200 years, to change much in two years. And, indeed, the Parador next to the Catedral is still beautifully comfortable, the bagpipes still play under the arch, and Ex’s barber is still in the same location to give him a great Spanish haircut. On the other hand, we were hoping that after two years they might have completed renovations on the Portico of Glory, an important part of the Catedral, and opened even some part of it to view. But no, and no completion date is even contemplated.

So, that will be something to look for on a future camino…